GENUINE QUALITY

It isn’t that hard to make one thing well, often simple perseverance will get you there. To make many things well is infinitely more difficult. Making garments is about a lot of things, but at it’s heart it is about the pattern. When things are in production something usually goes wrong, but it can also almost always be fixed. If you start with a bad pattern there is no way to recover. That is why it often takes us a year of revisions before we put a pattern into production. We are confident in our abilities and we are patient - good takes time. our role model is an acorn.

Dying:
Our solids are dyed with reactive dyes. This is done domestically (There are vast differences in the enviromential laws between Asia & the United States – here in the U.S. many of the traditional leads and binders used in dyes from years past have recently been regulated out. The result is that fabrics dyed in certain foreign countries might have more permanence of color, but also higher levels of toxicity. This is why many of our (domesticaly dyed) solids are over-dyed to an initually brighter shade than we would other- wise do. After a few washes the color settles down and over time they end up nicely patinaed. After the dye process, we frame and heat press the fabric and then reroll to eliminate the wrinkles and grain distortion that naturally occurred during the dying process, so that the material is smooth for accurate cutting

Printing:
Our domestic patterns are screen printed instead of digitally printed. At this time, we have not found a digital fabric printer in the United states (they do exist in Europe & elsewhere) that has the machinery capable of the digital quality we require. The printing of our imported pattern we can not speak about the technical aspects of that, but the factories in Paris and Milan where the printing takes place are some of the most resoected fabric printers in the world. If given a choice between screen print and digital printing (where art allows) we always choose screen (the dye saturated the fabric deeper and more thouroughly, but screen prints are quickly becoming hard to find. Also, with digital printing, there are artistic opportunities that are not possible with screen printing.

Cutting:
We use both: precision multi-ply vacuum conveyorized cutting systems and hand operated electric straight knife machines. For engineered prints we nail the stack. All bundles are color matched.

Sewing:
All of our garments are sewn in the Western or Southeastern United States. We use separate factories for each of our product categories (different machine requirements) and we also find that factories that specialize tend to do a better job. (i.e. For our “bottoms” we use different factories than our “tops”). Sewing is the heart of our product and the factories that we contract with treat their sewers fairly. They work long hours, but they are payed a fair wage and have clean working conditions. There isn’t a lot you can say about sewing: when they work on the back side of something we have them sew in the opposite direct to account for natural human inadaquacies when sewing favoring. We use a cotton/poly thread and set the “foot” of our machines to medium tension, this allows separate panels of fabric a tiny bit of allowance to slide and adjust to one another over time. It is a superior strategy than to locking your seams down which over time can result in diagonal “racking of the panel or “puckering” of the seam.

Finishing:
For the lighter color fabric we launder them after sewing. On heavier shorts fabric (duck, twill) we sometimes silicone wash them for softness. Our Chamois shirts we Enzyme wash for softness.

The Happiness Guarantee

We work very hard to make the best quality garments, but also understand that sometimes things don't turn out like you expect. If for any reason upon receiving your order, it is not what you expected and/or you do not consider it money well spent, simply return the product(s) in their original condition / timely manner for a full exchagne / discount.