Detail photo - blue twill weave cotton textile


Grayscale diagram illustrating yarn pattern in twill weave
Detail photo - blue twill weave cotton textile

The second most basic weave after plain weaves. Versatile and popular because of its durability and that it hides stains well. Seen in jeans, chinos, upholstery. The weft (filling yarn) is passed over one or more warp yarns and then under two or more warp yarns – this is repeated. The staggered offset between rows produces a characteristic diagonal pattern, called wales. Twill typically has a front and a back - called “technical face” and “technical back” (unlike plain weave in which both of the two sides are the same).The wales are more pronounced on the front (face) side. Fewer interfacings in twill allow the yarns a greater range of motion and thus the individual yarns have the ability to move more freely (making it softer and more pliable) and combined with the fact that the weave characteristically pulls downwards means that twill typically drapes better than plain weaves. Alternatively, because of fewer crossings, the yarns can be set closer together, producing a higher thread count fabric that is heavier and therefore can be more durable and resistant to wind and water and is often a preferred material for workwear garments. Twill weaves are divided into even sided (Herringbone, Houndstooth, Serge) and warp faced (chino, denim, drill, cavalry drill) The angle of the twill can also distinguish the sturdiness of the fabric - the steeper the angle, the more warp yarns were employed (45˚ is common) Soils and stains are less noticeable on twill than on other fabrics. Twill also recovers wrinkles better than plain weaves do. Some twill weaves will be sanded or brushed as a final step to remove and smooth out the distinction of the ribs. Brushing produces a smooth finish but has a slightly fluffy characteristic. A sanded finish is also smooth, but since the sanding shortens the hairs, it ends up having somewhat of a suede feel to it. Because twill weave already has a texture that some find interesting, printing on twills is uncommon.
  • Weave - Twill
  • Composition - 100% Cotton
  • Pre-Shrunk - Yes
  • Additional Shrinkage - Low (2%)
  • Wrinkle Resistance - Good
  • Care - Standard Launder / See: Garment Care
  • Colorfast Level - Medium